Montgenèvre – The Perfect Ski Resort for Families in France

Planning a family ski holiday can be a daunting task. From finding a destination with suitable slopes for every age group to ensuring there are activities for non-skiers, the list of requirements can seem endless.

But what if I told you there’s a magical little ski resort that ticks all the boxes? Welcome to Montgenèvre, a charming French resort nestled in the Alps, just a snowball’s throw from the Italian border.

Montgenèvre isn’t just another ski resort; it’s a haven for families looking for a stress-free winter getaway. While some ski destinations can feel overwhelming with their size and hustle, Montgenèvre offers a more intimate, laid-back vibe.

Think cosy chalets, friendly locals, and a pace of life that’s refreshingly unhurried.

Our Trip to Montgenèvre

First impressions are hugely important. Everyone knows that. The reason I look like a scruffy layabout when you first meet me is because I need you to know, right from the off, that I am a scruffy layabout.

I don’t want you to think I will magically transform into a well-dressed human. I won’t. Mrs B has been waiting for that for nearly 14 years now.

The reason we have an obesity crisis in this Country is probably because the first impression we get of physical exercise is at school. A harassed Geography teacher tries to explain ball games to you while it rains, or you’re doing gym in a drafty school hall in your pants because you’ve forgotten your PE kit.

You’d be forgiven for thinking that, from first impressions, it‘s all a bit crap – which is a shame because once you grow up a bit more, you realise it is not. Exercise can be great.

In a similar vein, take France. Sure, there’s a lot of history between England and France, some good, some bad, but history alone surely cannot account for the massive indifference most English people feel about France.

Again, I am sure it goes back to first impressions because most English people’s first impression of France is probably being crammed into a school coach for about 26 hours, before being dumped somewhere in Paris, where you will see the Eiffel Tower and some Parisians will promptly be very rude to you.

Then you return home after another 26 hours on a coach, full of magnificent indifference about an entire Country based upon first impressions of Paris. This is a shame, because again, once you grow up a bit more you realise Paris is not France. And France can be great.

Last Minute Trip

Why am I waxing lyrical about this? Well mostly because, in a vain attempt to ensure my children have a positive view of both exercise and the Continent (although, not necessarily at the same time) we decided on a (very) last minute whim to join our friends on a New Years skiing holiday in Montgenèvre, a little town based right on the Italian/French border in the Alps.

We checked the diary. It seemed do-able. We checked the bank account. It seemed possible. And Mrs B hates missing out on any chance of packing a suitcase. The scene was set for a very pleasant few days in France.

The only thing really stopping us was that… well… none of us actually really ski. We had tried a few years ago when we took a family trip to Livigno in Italy and while The Girl and I managed to get some decent skiing time in, Mrs B fell victim to the worst flu since the very discovery of the flu virus in the 16^th Century and The Boy took one look at the slopes and refused to move from the nearest café that served hot chocolate.

Well, as the old saying goes, second time’s the charm … right? Right.

Getting to Montgenèvre

Given Montgenèvre’s location in France, the easiest way to get there is to fly to (checks atlas) Italy. Obviously. Feels a bit counter-intuitive, I know, but the nearest airport is actually in Turin (Turin Airport (Aeroporto di Torino), or Turin-Caselle Airport) which is about 100 km (or 90 minutes driving) from Montgenèvre.

On arrival at Turin Airport, the only sensible choice for people wielding armfuls of ski kit is going to be motor transport and if you haven’t arranged a transfer as part of any hotel stay you’ve arranged, Turin Airport is incredibly well served by car hire firms.

While Turin is closest, there are some other airports which might work for you, depending, of course, on where you are coming from.

Milan is about 228 km from Montgenèvre. Grenoble is another option, about 168 km and finally, there’s also Chambéry Airport, which is about 158 km away. Thanks to the layout of the roads in the Alps, they are all about a 2.5-hour drive away from Montgenèvre.

We ended up renting a comedy small Dacia for £120 from Easyjet car rental at Turin Airport but beware! While you may initially get a quote at a good online price, it’s worth double-checking that the associated insurances cover the car for use outside of Italy.

This threw me initially. Surely in the highly federalised brotherhood that is the European Union, insurance is insurance, right? Apparently not.

Additional insurance cost us 95 Euros more, so we could drive literally the five metres over the border to our hotel. The sound of the credit card transaction for this additional insurance was conducted through some firmly gritted teeth.

Yes, it’s only for the sake of a few hundred metres, but then, roads covered in snow and ice are going to be slippy, so….

That minor hiccup aside we were soon crammed inside our cosy little love wagon and heading for the mountains. Of course, at this point I should point out that if you wish to, the public transport option is a train (or bus) from Turin to the town of Oulx, followed by a short taxi ride to Montgenèvre.

But Google Maps told me that would take me forever, so we passed on that.

So the car was the only real option and you have to wonder why we do this to ourselves; you know. There you are, a bit tired after a day of travelling, a bit disorientated, in a foreign land, the road signs make little sense, and you’re handed the keys to an unfamiliar car with weird controls.

You now have to drive on the wrong side of the road and it’s getting dark. So naturally, you think heading onto a high-speed motorway is an excellent idea. Alrighty.

Now, again, according to good old Google Maps, you can either take the smooth, well-maintained toll roads for about eleven euros and save forty-five minutes driving or, you can… not.

Of course, we paid the tolls on the road and were soon speeding along at a reasonable 110 kph towards our new mountain home along some beautifully maintained highways, with Mrs B making suitably impressed “oooooh” and “aaaah” noises as the Alps hove into view.  

Slowly, the expansive toll roads gave way to winding, single-track roads. The poor engine of our tiny car laboured to get up the severe mountain inclines, forcing you to work the gearbox like an egg beater while rocking backwards and forwards in your seat in order to propel it up the mountains.

Then, finally, triumphantly, you reach the top and are treated to the glorious sight of Montgenèvre before you, laid out for all the world like a picture-perfect Alpine village.

Because it is.

Montgenèvre Town

This hidden gem combines the best of both worlds: the reliability of French ski infrastructure and a touch of Italian flair, thanks to its proximity to the border. With over 300 days of sunshine a year and snow-sure slopes, it’s no wonder Montgenèvre is becoming a favourite among families.

Montgenèvre is like a child’s painting of a ski resort; chocolate box charming, dotted with traditional wooden lodges in the middle of a valley, with ski lifts and gondolas criss-crossing each side.

Right as you enter the village, you drive under a bridge purposely made for skiers coming down off the slopes and an impressively huge stone obelisk sits on the main roundabout, apparently “erected to the glory of Napoleon” in 1804, blown up in 1835 by the Piedmontese (local Italian rebels, apparently) and then rebuilt with some bronze plaques attached to pay tribute to Napoleon.

Unlike, say, a good British statue that would at least have an image of Napoleon somewhere on it, this has no such extravagance. It’s just a big stone.

It’s enough to make any tourist give a Galic shrug of the shoulders, which I guess is about right for France.

Featureless stone obelisks aside, Montgenèvre has everything you need. The main street bustles with shops, cafes, restaurants and ski hire places, as well as a busy tourist office that sells ski passes up to the top of the mountains.

The streets back from the main road host further cafes as well as rows of ski hotels and lodges with something for every budget and taste. The other side of the main road is a large open space that hosts a communal ice ring as well as a gently sloping open area that is ideal for children to practice sledging on.

There is also a free travellator that is ideal for taking young children (and cowards) up a gentle slope to start to learn how to ski.

And of course, all around you are the stunning Alps, glistening with pristine white winter snow. Apparently, Montgenèvre is equally popular in the summer months with walkers, mountain climbers and those on cycle tours.

With such a family-friendly village feel, it’s really easy to see why. You can view a live webcam of the snow at Montgenèvre here.

Places to Stay in Montgenèvre

Our Top 3 Picks: Montgenèvre Hotels

#1 TOP PICK

⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Anova Hotel & Spa
✔️ Fabulous Spa
✔️ Great Location
✔️ Ski-in/Out

↳ Book it

#2 PICK

Résidence Club mmv Le Hameau des Airelles
✔️ Aparthotel with Spa
✔️ Ski-in/Out

↳ Book it

#3 PICK

Le Chalet Blanc Hôtel & Spa
✔️ Amazing Views
✔️ Excellent Restaurant
✔️ Wellness Facilities

↳ Book it

As regular readers of this blog will know, we are a family of idiots, and because we are idiots we of course booked so late that the only room available to us was in the Anova Hotel & Spa (511 Rue de l’Obélisque, 05100 Montgenèvre).

Luckily for us, this is rated as the best place to stay (of 24) in Montgenèvre by TripAdvisor, but with pricing to match, as we paid £2800 for a 5-night stay as a family of 4 in a Junior Suite room, and that was without breakfast!  

You can read more about our stay at Anova Hotel and Spa in this blog post.

If we hadn’t been such a pair of disorganised idiots, we would probably have plumped for the hotel next door, the Résidence Club MMV Le Hameau des Airelles (Le Hameau de l’Obélisque, 05100 Montgenèvre) for three main reasons.

Firstly, it’s much cheaper. Secondly, that’s where our friends were staying and thirdly, it’s more of an apartment hotel so you get a kitchenette and lounge area as part of your stay.

The option of being able to cook something your kids will actually like is a complete bonus.  As our friends were staying there, I had a chance for a good old nose around.

Firstly, it’s a right old maze of a hotel. I think it might originally have been a much smaller building that has been extended over the years.

In addition, it’s built on the side of a mountain, so floors are on different levels and it’s relatively tricky to find out way around. There are at least 2 different reception areas and three lifts that don’t all stop on the same floor as each other, so this makes navigation tricky.

On the plus side, it does make for an excellent hide-and-seek location for the kids as they can hide all over the place. Like the Anova Hotel, it also boasts a spa and outdoor pool, although slightly larger, and a bar area but no restaurant as all the rooms are self-catering. 

While we didn’t sleep there, we spent enough time there to think it’s worthy of a stay, it has a good feel to it.

Other options which looked good in passing include the nearby Hotel Le Chalet Blanc (Hameau De L Obelisque, 05100 Montgenèvre) and the Villages Clubs Du Soleil Montgenèvre (Les Miandettes, 05100 Montgenèvre).

But as always, have a bit of a Google around. There will be something that suits your taste and budget!

Places to Eat in Montgenevre

Foodwise, you are spoiled for choice in Montgenèvre although it is all much the same offering, pizzas, chips and burgers are always in high demand for hungry skiers! There are more traditional French offerings such as the ubiquitous onion soups and ham and cheese toasties and we happily bounced from each to each.

One standout highlight was our evening meal at Le Caesar’s (193 Rte d’Italie, 05100 Montgenèvre) which was a packed out, yet cosy restaurant with very much the vibe that you were eating in someone’s front room.

You can tell it was good. It doesn’t need a website. It didn’t even take cards, which led to some panic when the bill came, although fortunately, it does do International bank transfers!

We had decided to have a special meal out as it was Mrs B’s birthday so the kids had the usual array of pizzas and chicken nuggets, but we had the best meat and cheese fondue I’d had a long time. Tender pieces of fillet steak and the runniest, creamiest melted cheese with plates of meats, vegetables and bread to dip and taste away with.

It was quite the extravagant feast with none of the extravagant prices you’d fear with a meal of that quality. Dinner and drinks for five adults and six children came to just a shade under £250.

This is entirely fair; I think I ate £100 worth of beef alone.

Other notable restaurants in Montgenevre are Le Transalpin, Le Trio and head up the Gondola for amazing views at Les Terrasses De Montgenèvre. Just make sure you book ahead as we had trouble finding a table, but that may be because it was New Year!

Things to Do in Montgenèvre

Ski!

One of the biggest challenges for families is finding a resort with slopes that cater to everyone, from tiny tots taking their first steps on skis to adrenaline-seeking teenagers and even parents looking for a leisurely glide.

Montgenèvre’s ski area is designed with inclusivity in mind. It has a total of 8 green, 13 blue, 17 red, and 10 black slopes and 70 km of cross-country terrain where the French national team train.

Beginners’ Paradise

If you’ve got first-time skiers in your group, Montgenèvre’s beginner-friendly slopes are ideal. The resort boasts wide, gentle pistes that are perfect for learning the basics.

The dedicated beginner zones are safe and well-signposted, allowing little ones to build their confidence without the pressure of more experienced skiers whizzing by.

Intermediate and Advanced Runs

For those who’ve mastered the snowplough, there’s an extensive network of blue and red runs to explore. And if you’ve got a daredevil or two in the family, the black runs and off-piste areas offer plenty of challenges.

The Milky Way ski area, which Montgenèvre is part of, extends into Italy, giving you access to over 400km of interconnected slopes. Skiing across the border is a unique experience that older kids and adults will love.

Ski Schools

The ski schools in Montgenèvre are top-notch, with instructors who are patient, friendly, and fluent in multiple languages. Whether you’re booking a group lesson for your kids or a private session for yourself, you’ll be in good hands.

The ESF (Ecole du Ski Français) and A-Peak are two popular options, both offering lessons for all ages and skill levels. Whilst we were there, ESF was celebrating 80 years of providing lessons and put on a magnificent firework display and drone show on New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day.

Things to Do in Montgenèvre If You Don’t Ski

I know, I know, why would you go on a skiing holiday if you don’t ski? Well, many reasons.

You might have young children who, bless them, try it and don’t like it, and then you have a week to fill.

You might be injured. You might try it and decide after an hour it’s not for you. Never fear, Montgenèvre has lots to do! In no particular order…

Luge Monty Express

Have a go on the Luge Monty Express (817 Route d’Italie 05100 Montgenèvre). Fancy skiing but without the risk of a broken leg? Then the Luge Monty Express is your thing.

Over 1.4 km long and open almost all year round, the Monty Express can reach a maximum speed of 60 km/h, taking you from top to bottom in about 3 minutes.

But for those of a nervous disposition, the brake can be used as much – or as little – as you wish! Adults (15 to 74) from €12.50, Children (6 to 14) from €10, free for children under 6 and over 75s.

Cable Car

Take the Cable Car to the Peak. The same cable car that takes you to the top of the Luge Monty Express can take you to the top of the nearest peak, where you can drink in the views and enjoy lunch or a drink at the top at Les Terrasses De Montgenèvre.

Stunning mountain views and delicious food combine to give you a real mountain experience!

Spa

If your hotel doesn’t have one, (we were lucky enough to have a wonderful spa at the Anova Hotel) why not book yourself into a Spa, specifically, the DURANCIA Balneotherapy Centre & Spa (1100 Route de France 05100 Montgenèvre).

After a hard day (or not), why not treat yourself to the pool heated to 34°c or the whirlpool beds, jacuzzis, a counter-current river, massage jets, or sauna?

For younger children, there is also a heated outdoor pool surrounded by snow and a lagoon – ideal for those Instagram pictures you just have to get! Prices vary according to treatment/session.

Mountain Walking

Montgenèvre isn’t just a paradise for skiers; it’s also a fantastic destination for those who love mountain walking. The resort’s stunning alpine scenery is crisscrossed with well-maintained trails that cater to all abilities, making it an ideal activity for families.

Winter Wonderland Walks: In winter, snow-covered trails offer magical walking experiences. You can rent snowshoes to explore paths through frosted forests and sparkling meadows, soaking in the tranquility of the surroundings.

Guided snowshoe tours are available for those who want to learn about the local flora, fauna, and history while enjoying a safe and scenic hike.

Summer Hiking: In summer, Montgenèvre transforms into a hiker’s paradise. Trails wind their way through lush green valleys, alongside babbling streams, and up to panoramic viewpoints.

Families can choose from gentle strolls perfect for little legs or more challenging routes for seasoned walkers. Popular trails include Petit Balcon, Grand Balcon, Rocher Diseur and La Durance.

Paragliding

For those feeling more adventurous, how do you feel about a paragliding experience and flying over the resort, accompanied by your instructor with Origin’air Paragliding?

You could get a really unique view soaring over the valley and make a core memory that would last you a lifetime! Adults from €110, Children from €90.

Ultimately, our five days went by in the blink of an eye and Montgenèvre absolutely did not disappoint. The people were friendly and welcoming, the food and accommodation were excellent and the children, most importantly had a great time because not once did we hear that they were bored or wished to go back home.

For a first impression of skiing, or indeed of France, we couldn’t have wished for a better experience and even if you don’t really ski, you’ll enjoy the views, the food and the atmosphere of being in the fresh mountain air to help you sleep well every night.

At least now, when my children experience Paris – or a rotten PE lesson – they’ll be able to look back on this and know that these things aren’t always awful. Sometimes they can be quite wonderful. Like Montgenèvre is.